Previously, I linked to an article by Jennie Alexander about making a tapered reamer using just a piece of dry hardwood and a compass saw blade. The tools described in that article are a bit rough, but apparently work just fine.
Other chairmakers have taken that basic concept and elevated it to a new level. Tim Manney probably makes the best tapered reamers available that include several refinements beyond the original design. First, the top of the reamer is gently tapered to a point to aid in sighting down the reamer in use; the upper portion is turned to a perfect cylinder to allow it to be used as a reference surface for accurate measurement; finally, the tool includes a set screw to allow for a fine adjustment of the blade projection. I chose to copy this more refined design for my own tapered reamer.
I started by picking up a $10 compass saw from Lowe’s. I also picked out a nice piece of osage-orange. It probably doesn’t make too much difference what kind of hardwood you use, as long as it’s straight-grained and not too soft. It doesn’t get much harder than osage, and it certainly is eye-catching!
Hi, couldn’t you just use a cheap/old hacksaw blade rather than an expensive compass saw blade – as the wooden holder already provides the required taper?
No, a hacksaw blade would not work – at least not with this style of reamer. The blade itself is what defines the taper of the tool, with the blade protruding slightly on both sides, and fit into a simple saw kerf. You could, I suppose, make a tapered reamer with a a hacksaw blade, but then you would have to cut a blind slot on the side of a cone, which would be a pain in the ass to cut, fit, and adjust the depth. A compass saw blade is inexpensive – $8-$10 last time I bought one – and will save you time in the long run and the short run.
Hadn’t realized that your reamer was 2-sided, thanks for pointing that out. Coincidentally I made a tapered reamer this afternoon from an ash log, using axe, draw knife, wooden spokeshave and a brace-&-bit (don’t have a lathe but I do have a shave horse). It uses a single hacksaw blade placed in a kerf (actually really easy to cut with a tenon saw – constant depth), which I think is more like Jennie Alexander’s (http://www.greenwoodworking.com/SawSteelTaperedReamerPlans) although she used a compass saw blade. It works very well, well enough for my needs anyway. Blades are more expensive in the UK but hacksaw blades are more common & can be less than £1 & I used an old one.
I turned and slotted the wooden taper and then cut the blade by inserting the blank into the taper and marking it with a fine tip felt pen. No idea what the exact angle is; about 15 degrees inclusive. Don’t know if i will be making a tapered tenon cutter as I do not make chairs.
Hi, couldn’t you just use a cheap/old hacksaw blade rather than an expensive compass saw blade – as the wooden holder already provides the required taper?
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No, a hacksaw blade would not work – at least not with this style of reamer. The blade itself is what defines the taper of the tool, with the blade protruding slightly on both sides, and fit into a simple saw kerf. You could, I suppose, make a tapered reamer with a a hacksaw blade, but then you would have to cut a blind slot on the side of a cone, which would be a pain in the ass to cut, fit, and adjust the depth. A compass saw blade is inexpensive – $8-$10 last time I bought one – and will save you time in the long run and the short run.
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Hadn’t realized that your reamer was 2-sided, thanks for pointing that out. Coincidentally I made a tapered reamer this afternoon from an ash log, using axe, draw knife, wooden spokeshave and a brace-&-bit (don’t have a lathe but I do have a shave horse). It uses a single hacksaw blade placed in a kerf (actually really easy to cut with a tenon saw – constant depth), which I think is more like Jennie Alexander’s (http://www.greenwoodworking.com/SawSteelTaperedReamerPlans) although she used a compass saw blade. It works very well, well enough for my needs anyway. Blades are more expensive in the UK but hacksaw blades are more common & can be less than £1 & I used an old one.
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I turned and slotted the wooden taper and then cut the blade by inserting the blank into the taper and marking it with a fine tip felt pen. No idea what the exact angle is; about 15 degrees inclusive. Don’t know if i will be making a tapered tenon cutter as I do not make chairs.
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How is the blade held in the slot?
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